![](https://static.timesofisrael.com/ajn/uploads/2024/08/The-western-or-wailing-wall-in-the-old-city-of-jerusalem-the-most-important-site-for-the-Jewish-religion-scaled.jpeg)
A land of paradoxes
What’s the mood like in Israel during the war? I recently spent two weeks travelling around Israel, visiting its biggest cities and most important religious sites, trying to figure out what makes its people tick. From Ben Gurion Airport, I caught a …