Winter was slipping by without a longed-for getaway to the tropics, so we decided to “lean into” the season and find a nearby getaway to make the bitter weather seem tolerable, if not outright enchanting.
And while snowy landscapes and bare trees have never been my thing, we succeeded. Our visit to a beautiful, historic resort in the Poconos provided a mid-winter lift that might last straight through to spring.
The Poconos is always an easy choice for a quick getaway from New Jersey — for good reason: this four-county region offers a wide array of accommodations, from traditional hotels to rental units, to themed water park resorts (and yes, even a few kitschy honeymoon places). More than 30 million visitors each year savor outdoor activities, shopping, sightseeing – and in our case, spa treatments and gourmet meals – in popular places like Jim Thorpe, Lake Harmony, Stroudsburg, and Milford, Pa.
A former home, now a resort
We splurged on our first trip to the Poconos in two years, choosing a much-acclaimed spa resort with a fascinating past. Taking backroads, we made one stop on our drive – at the step-back-in-time Marshall’s Farm Market in Delaware, NJ, where we picked up some killer apple cider donuts and homemade peanut butter.
From there, it was on to our two-night stay at The French Manor Inn & Spa in Newfoundland, Pa. -- right in the center of the Poconos region. by sisters Bridget (Logan) Weber and Genevieve (Logan) Reese, this elegant (but never stuffy) property has been in their family since 1990.
The French Manor was originally the 1930s home of magnate and art collector Joseph Hirshorn.Photo courtesy French Manor Inn & Spa
The French Manor’s history – it was built by shipping magnate Joseph Hirshorn during the Great Depression -- helped us fully appreciate its appeal. Long before Washington DC’s Hirshorn Museum opened its doors in 1974, Hirshorn was a famed industrialist and art collector. Born in Lativa, he emigrated to the U.S. at age six and went to work on Wall Street as an “office boy” at 14. At 17, Hirshorn came a stockbroker, earning $168,000 in one year – an amount equivalent to millions in today’s money.
A shrewd investor, he sold off his Wall Street investments only months before the stock market crash of 1929, earning $4 million in cash. So, while much of the world struggled to survive during the Depression, Hirshhorn lived the good life. In 1935, he bought a huge parcel of land in a remote area of the Poconos, then brought in more than 150 craftsmen to construct a summer retreat on Huckleberry Mountain in Wayne County.
This stone chateau, completed in 1937, was built with natural lumber and fieldstone from local quarries. Built to last, the roof was made of imported Spanish slate and much of the interior wood is peaky cypress and cedar. The main house has two massive “his-and-her” stone fireplaces in the Great Room, which today houses the French Manor’s 50-seat gourmet restaurant.
Hirshorn eventually sold the home to Samuel Henry Kress (of S.H. Kress & Co. variety stores fame), who willed it to Bucknell University. Bucknell used the manor primarily for art restoration, then it sat closed for more than a decade.
Rechristened the French Manor in 1990, the resort’s Le Spa Forêt debuted a decade later, complete with a sauna and salt water pool open to guests and to day patrons. An outdoor hot tub, located by the property’s Tranquility Garden, will be operational later this year.
The historic Carriage House is one of several lodging options at the French Manor.Photo by Nicole Pensiero
The French Manor is all about high-quality amenities and customer service: from the exquisite cuisine served in its dining room for breakfast (included in our package) or dinner, to its wide array of spa services, we felt totally pampered. Located on about 50 acres, The French Manor is an intimate place, with 19 rooms and suites, including our suite (complete with whirlpool tub) in the country-style Carriage House. Other lodging options are in the main house, in the spa building, and in La Maisonneuve (meaning “New House” in French).
In the warm weather months, there’s an outdoor covered terrace for dining and drinks, offering a sweeping view of the valley and mountains. “Tuesdays on the Terrace” – featuring live jazz music – runs from June 24– August 26
We spent our first day just relaxing by the pool, then enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at the resort’s restaurant. The menu – which features daily specials – is created by executive chef Keegan Marchand, who grew up in the area. We especially loved the filet mignon served with duchess potatoes, and the oven-baked branzino with risotto. For dessert, we split a luscious multi-layer sponge “opera cake.”
The French Manor restaurant – open to the public every day except for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day -- has received AAA 4-Diamond status consecutively for the past 20-plus years. There are also special events, including a Mother’s Day brunch, an Easter brunch and a Thanksgiving feast. Reservations are recommended.
Out and About
On Day Two, we set off to explore the area before our late afternoon spa treatments. It’s an easy drive to the amazing man-made wonder known as Lake Wallenpaupack. One of Pennsylvania’s largest bodies of freshwater, there are many popular restaurants lining its shores. “Lake Wally,” as locals call it, truly comes to life in the Spring (although we saw many people ice fishing and each February, there’s the Wally Ice Fest).
In August, visitors come out by the hundreds for the three-day Wally Lake Fest. This fun-filled summer festival – this year set for August 22 to 24 -- features everything from boat rides, to live music, to shopping and food happenings.
The Cocoon Coffee House, part of the Hawley Silk Mill complex, is a cozy spot for a quick bite or a warm beverage.Photo courtesy of Settlers Hospitality
Nearby Hawley, Pa., is home to the historic Hawley Silk Mill – listed in the National Register of Historic Places – which was originally opened in 1880 as, you guessed it, a silk mill. Brought back it its original splendor in 2011, it’s now home to several unique shops and art galleries. Next to it is a much smaller stone structure that once sheltered the cocoons that supplied the silk. Today, it’s the cozy Cocoon Coffee House, perfect for hot beverage and homemade cookies on a cold day.
After returning to The French Manor, we enjoyed some time in the salt water indoor pool and adjoining sauna before our pampering at Le Spa Forêt, which is open to both resort guests and outside appointments. I opted for the sweet-smelling “Marshmallow Whip Hydrating Facial,” while my traveling companion went for the “Mellow Moonchild CBD Body Nourishment” treatment. We both felt fantastic at the conclusion of our treatments, and loved the spa’s laid-back, elegant vibe.
A visit to The French Manor was a fantastic way to escape the winter doldrums, and I can only hope to return one day in the warm weather months to sit on that patio and savor a colorful sunset and jazz music.
For more information about the Pocono Mountains, visit www.poconomountains.com.
Nicole Pensiero is a South Jersey-based travel writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association.