Granada, Nicaragua is fast becoming central America's most charming city

With the rainy season in Nicaragua now over, Amber Dobrzensky discovers the tropical splendour, breathtaking sights and local crafts of its most charming city
Alamy Stock Photo
Dipal Acharya13 November 2017

Where to stay

Jicaro Island Lodge is an eco-luxe retreat on an islet just a short boat trip from Granada’s Puerto Asese dock. The emphasis here is on sustainability, excellent food and relaxation — including free morning yoga classes (private casitas from £380; jicarolodge.com).

With chic design from New York hospitality veterans (of Indochine, Acme & Tijuana Picnic) and slick service, Hotel Tribal is the hippest of the city’s boutique hotels. Breakfast is served on your private balcony or by the highly-Instagrammable pool (suites from £140; tribal-hotel.com).

Make yourself at home at Miss Margrit’s B&B, set in a lovely restored colonial villa; British owner Chris is a natural host and very knowledgeable about local tourism (rooms from £50; missmargrits.com).

A suite at Hotel Tribal

What to see

Explore more than 360 islets — La Isletas — by stand-up paddleboard with Livit Water (from £35 per person; livitwater.com). Hike Mombacho Volcano (left) for breathtaking city views, or swing like Tarzan through the forest canopy on a guided zipline adventure with Tierra Tour (from £55 per person; tierratour.com). Charitable foundation La Casa de Los Tres Mundos, set in a majestic old villa overlooking the central park, hosts changing art exhibitions, performances and events (c3mundos.org).

Mombacho Volcano
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What to do

Indulge at the Choco Museo. Make, eat and learn all about cacao or just shop the in-house products (below) including powders, spreads and liquers. Roll your own custom-blend cigar at Doña Elba’s, a family-run tobacco factory. Pamper yourself at Balance Spa with massage and acupuncture from talented local healer Amos. Treatments are a bargain from £20, despite popularity with visiting A-listers.

ChocoMuseo

Where to eat and drink

Seek out Espressonista for lunch, dinner or a perfect latte. This stylish resto-café-gallery serves award-winning micro-lot coffee from Finca Las Golondrinas and the finest national produce — including Matagalpa Camembert, organic rocket from Rivas and smoked Mombacho ham — in a glamorous old villa. El Tercer Ojo is a buzzing cocktail and craft beer bar with an eclectic menu and occasional live music, set in an old cinema overlooking the main street, Calle La Calzada. Start a night out with its signature strawberry-jalapeño margaritas. Not for vegetarians, El Zaguan is the country’s most famous steakhouse and a Granada institution, serving top-grade Nicaraguan beef. Try the best-known local dish, vigorón — yuca, pork crackling and cabbage salad — here if you aren’t braving the street food.

Local flavour: Espressonista

Where to shop

Browse the huge selection from Thousand Cranes at the Garden Café, which features locally made craft goods, accessories and recycled, natural products. Pick up a gorgeous, handwoven hammock (above) at social enterprise Centro Social Tío Antonio in the Café de Las Sonrisas. And visit traditional ceramic workshop Ladrilleria Favilli for a fantastic array of handmade tiles, which are ubiquitous in the city.

Handwoven hammocks